When choosing a pet reptile you have to understand their health issues and typical behaviors. Some species can be challenging for beginners, so look for a pet that’s naturally hardy and easygoing – like the ball python (but only the captive-bred ones)
Early in my reptile-keeping journey, I worked with thousands of wild-caught ball pythons and almost all of them arrived with multiple health problems like tick infestations, respiratory infections, poor sheds, and infected wounds were very common in them.
But captive-bred ball pythons are a world apart. They are healthy, adaptable, and among the sweetest-natured snakes out there.
Honestly, what more could a first-time snake owner wish for?
Want to know more about the behaviors and illnesses of ball pythons? Keep reading!
Key Takeaways
- Healthy ball pythons typically lie in a flat coil, move slowly, often flick their tongues, and may lie in wait for food. When scared, they might hiss, flee, or curl into a protective ball.
- Ball pythons shed periodically, after every 4 to 6 weeks, or as rarely as once or twice per year
- Ball python bites are not dangerous and are very little painful.
- Handle your ball python in short, infrequent sessions to avoid stress.
- Respiratory infections, the inclusion of body disease, obesity, mites, and mouth rot are common health issues.
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> Further Reading: The Complete Ball Python Care Sheet
Basic Ball Python Behavior and Body Language
You’ll notice your ball pythons performing a few common behaviors over time, including those explained below.
- Calm ball pythons move about slowly but purposefully.
- Ball pythons often flick their tongues while moving about to learn about their surroundings. This helps them gather information through scent particles that stick to their tongue and are analyzed by an organ in their mouth called Jacobson’s organ.
- Hungry ball pythons often lay motionlessly, with their head poised and ready to strike. They may also prowl slowly around the habitat seeking prey.
- When frightened, ball pythons may withdraw their head into an “S-coil,” hiss, flee or roll into a ball.
- Although it is somewhat rare, ball pythons can bite if they feel threatened or mistake your hand for prey.
Common Ball Python Behaviors: A Deeper Look
We’ll examine a few of the more noteworthy behaviors ball pythons exhibit below.
Shedding
Ball pythons, like all other snakes, shed their skin periodically. This can occur as often as once every four or six weeks for younger and healthy snakes, or as rarely as once or twice per year for adults, depending on the size, age, and health of the individual.
The shedding process starts with the snake’s belly turning a pinkish color and the overall scales appearing dull. A few days later, the eyes will take on a milky blue or opaque appearance. Following the blue eye phase, the snake’s colors will clear up again right before the shed occurs.
Proper sheds should come off in one long piece. But unfortunately, ball pythons who are sick, mite infested or dehydrated often shed in multiple pieces or fail to shed completely. This is called dysecdysis and can cause long-term health problems in some cases, so it is important to take steps to eliminate the problem.
Make sure your ball python’s enclosure has a proper humidity range of 50-60% at all times, with increased humidity (around 70-80%) during shed cycles. A hygrometer will be best to monitor these levels. And provide your ball python with a secure, humid hide, especially during its shedding cycle. Fill this hide with damp sphagnum moss to create a high-humidity safe space. Additionally, slightly damp substrate can help maintain humidity levels in the enclosure. Always provide a large enough water bowl for your snake to soak in if it chooses to.
Handling Stuck Shed:
If your ball python is having trouble shedding, there are safe and effective ways to help. Create a homemade humidity chamber using a plastic container with ventilation holes and a warm, damp towel placed inside. Place the container on a heating pad set to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (regulated by a thermostat). Once it gets warm, place the snake inside. And, cover the container with a cloth to reduce stress in your snake. Keep the snake in the chamber for no more than one hour, then return it to its enclosure. Repeat this process if the shed does not come off within 24 hours.
After using the humidity chamber, if you still see some stuck shed try gently aiding its removal using a damp cloth or cotton swabs. Always work in the direction of the scales. Do not force any scales off, especially near the eyes or the face.
Important Note: While soaking was once common advice but now it’s considered potentially stressful and even dangerous for ball pythons due to the risk of drowning snakeheads by many owners. Instead, use the humidity chamber method.
> Further reading: Ball Python Shedding: All You Need to Know
Biting
Biting is the behavior that often elicits the most attention from new keepers. This is understandable – nobody wants to be bitten by a snake.
However, it is important to note that ball python bites are rarely very painful, nor are they likely to cause much damage. Typically, they’ll cause a few minor breaks in the skin, which will ooze a trickle of blood.
Bites rarely require much more first aid than simple soap and water. However, if the bite displays any signs of infection (redness, swelling, etc.), contact your doctor. It is also important to feel the wound carefully to ensure no teeth were left in your skin.
> Further Reading: Does a Ball Python Bite Hurt (and Why Would Your Pet Bite)?
Handling Your Ball Pythons: Basics, Tips, and Tricks
Below, we’ll discuss the best way to handle your ball python, and then we’ll share a few tips and tricks that’ll likely make it easier and more enjoyable to do so.
Basic Ball Python Handling Procedure
Although you’ll certainly need to adjust to different circumstances and individuals, the best way to handle your ball python is as follows:
- Open the habitat and touch your snake gently on the back. This will help you avoid startling him if he’s sleeping (it is essentially impossible to tell if your snake is just sitting still or sleeping, as they lack eyelids).
- Place your fingers under his body gently and lift him off the cage floor quickly and decisively. Don’t stare at him for 10 minutes trying to gather your nerve; that’ll only make him nervous. Just pick him up.
- Once lifted, let your snake crawl freely around your hands and arms. Be sure to support him but avoid gripping his body tightly – that tends to make snakes feel threatened.
- After about 5 to 10 minutes (or you are done examining him, if that was your reason for picking him up in the first place), gently return him to his habitat and close the enclosure.
- Wash your hands with soap and warm water.
Tips and Tricks
Try to follow the procedure outlined above, but from time to time, you may find the following tips helpful:
- Learn to recognize your snake’s body language. Typically, ball pythons will communicate discomfort or fear long before they resort to biting. They’ll often do this by tensing their muscles, becoming more rigid, hissing or acting “jumpy.” If you note these signs, return your pet to his enclosure and leave him alone.
- If you must pick up a defensive ball python, use the “paper towel trick.” By simply covering your snake with a paper towel (or small hand towel, if your snake is large), you’ll find that most snakes calm down significantly. You can then pick up the entire package – snake and towel – and move him as necessary.
- A snake hook (or an improvised version thereof) can make some snakes feel more comfortable. After lifting the snake with the hook, you may be able to transfer him to your hand without a problem. Otherwise, you can simply use the hook to move him as necessary.
- Don’t handle your snake too often or for too long. Excessive handling will usually stress your snake out, so keep handling sessions brief. Also, don’t bring your snake to public places, as this is stressful to the snake and often upsetting to those who are not comfortable with snakes. This type of behavior only hurts the hobby.
- Because they’re nocturnal, ball pythons are generally easier to handle during the day. You’ll often find that your ball python will be more alert at night, and they’ll generally be less tolerant of handling during such times.
Caution: Don’t Handle Your Ball Python After Eating
Note that you should never handle your ball python who’s recently eaten. Doing so may cause him to regurgitate his last meal. This not only creates a thoroughly disgusting mess, but it is also stressful for the snake. It’s also a waste of money, as that rodent will now be useless.
As a general rule, the minimum you should wait after feeding before handling is 24 hours. However, it’s far safer to wait 48-72 hours (if your snake ate larger meals) to ensure complete digestion. This assumes that any bulge created by the meal has shrunk. If you can still detect a food bulge, do not handle your snake.
> Further Reading: The Ball Python Diet
Illness and Disease: Signs of a Sick Ball Python
Some of the most common health problems that afflict ball pythons are explained below. These are certainly not all of the possible diseases and conditions that may threaten your pet, but they deserve the most attention.
Respiratory Infections
Any snake can suffer from a respiratory infection, but snakes that hail from tropical areas – including ball pythons – are often especially susceptible to them. Because snakes cannot cough, they have great difficulty expelling the fluid which can accumulate in their respiratory tract. This means that a simple “chest cold” can quickly prove fatal in snakes.
A few of the most common symptoms of respiratory infections in ball pythons include:
- Blowing bubbles from the nostrils or mouth
- Wheezing, clicking, or gurgling sounds when breathing
- Drooling
- Labored breathing or open-mouthed breathing
- Food refusal
- Staying near the heat source more often than usual
- Lethargy or decreased activity levels
If you notice your ball python exhibiting any of these symptoms, temporarily raise the temperatures within your ball python’s enclosure slightly. Aim for the high end of their recommended temperature range to support their immune function.
While ball pythons occasionally recover from extremely mild respiratory infections without veterinary treatment, most will require medications to help combat the infection.
Inclusion Body Disease
Inclusion Body Disease (IBD) is a severe and deadly viral infection. It affects snakes within the boid family, which also includes ball pythons. Infected snakes show symptoms that include neurological problems (like stargazing, tremors, and disorientation), respiratory difficulties, and digestive issues such as regurgitation and weight loss. Sadly, there is no cure or treatment for IBD. As it’s highly contagious and causes a lot of suffering to the animal, euthanasia is only considered the most humane option to prevent the spread of the virus and end the snake’s suffering.
Prevention is always the key to IBD, and it’s important to only buy snakes from breeders who test for the disease, and strictly quarantine any new snakes for a minimum of 3-6 months. Cleaning the equipment and affected areas thoroughly is also essential – especially if your snakes have been exposed to the virus. If you think your ball python might have IBD, keep it away from other snakes and get help from a vet right away.
> Further Reading: How to Tell if My Ball Python Is Dying?
Obesity
Obesity can cause health problems for ball pythons, so it is important to keep your snake at the proper body weight. While experienced keepers are often able to accurately assess body condition, it is often difficult for novices to do so. Accordingly, beginners should visit their vet regularly (perhaps once per year) to ensure that their snake is in good health.
Some of the most notable locations in which ball pythons store fat include the rear portion of the head and the sides of the tail base. Additionally, the spine and ribs can provide clues to the snake’s body condition. You should be able to feel your snake’s ribs, but they should not be visible in most cases. A healthy ball python has a smoothly rounded, triangular body shape when viewed in cross-section.
Obesity takes a long time to treat in snakes – they don’t need very many calories in the first place. Accordingly, it is important to avoid the problem entirely by carefully managing your snake’s diet and feeding frequency.
> Further Reading: The Ball Python Diet
Eye Infections
A lot of new owners worry that their new ball python has an eye infection, but eye infections aren’t terribly common in snakes. I can only remember caring for one snake out of thousands that had a legitimate eye infection – and that was a water snake, not a ball python.
However, ball pythons do frequently experience two other eye-related problems:
- The eyes of dehydrated ball pythons will often dimple.
- Shedding difficulties can cause a snake to retain the scale covering its eye.
Unfortunately, it can be very difficult for beginners to distinguish between these two problems. So, the best thing to do is simply visit the veterinarian if you notice anything unusual about your ball python’s eye. Neither of these issues is terribly difficult for your vet to treat – he or she can likely remove a retained scale or help you rehydrate your pet.
Mites
The snake mite (specifically Ophionyssus natricis) is a tiny arthropod that feeds on the blood of snakes. And unfortunately, they are both extremely common and extremely difficult to eradicate – particularly for snake-keeping novices.
Individually, mites don’t represent much of a problem, although they’re probably irritating to the snake. But, when their numbers climb into the dozens, hundreds or thousands, they can cause serious physical stress. Death from mites is rare, but it is possible.
Mites essentially look like a moving speck of black pepper. They’re easy to spot against a white enclosure wall, but they’re very difficult to see on the dark portions of a snake’s body.
The easiest place to see them on your snake will be his ventral side, especially the portion under the chin (check in the crease running down the center of your snake’s lower jaw). You may also find them clustered around the eyes, mouth, or vent area.
Eradicating mites is complicated because the mature females are constantly leaving your snake, moving into the environment and depositing eggs. So, you’ll often have to utilize special medications that will kill the next generation of mites, or you’ll need to go to great lengths to eliminate the mites on your snake and those living in the environment.
In either case, beginners are wise to immediately seek veterinary assistance when confronted with mites.
> Further Reading: Mites in Ball Pythons
Mouth Rot
Mouth rot, also known as infectious stomatitis, is a bit of a catch-all term for various infections that manifest in the mouth of a snake. It is pretty disgusting – it can cause your snake’s mouth to bleed, ooze cheesy material, loose teeth or worse. Common culprits include Aeromonas, Pseudomonas, and various other opportunistic bacteria. But if caught quickly, you’ll usually be able to stop the problem.
Mouth rot can be caused by a variety of different things like small injuries in the mouth from prey, rough substrate, decor, weekened immune system and poor husbandry, so you’ll need to work with your vet to treat the animal. Just be sure that you do so quickly, as this problem can progress drastically in a short period of time.
Take Care!
Ball pythons are usually healthy and easy-going animals. You just have to start with a healthy, captive-bred individual and then provide the proper habitat, diet, and care. Just be observant and look out for the symptoms of illness mentioned above. This way, you’ll be able to act quickly and give your snake the best chance of recovery.
204 Comments
Hello! My ball python is 8 months old (I got him when he was about 3 weeks old). I’ve never had a snake or reptile before, so I often find myself getting stressed that I’m not taking proper care of him. Is it normal for him to push up against the screen cover like he’s trying to escape? His temperatures never go over 75 on the cool side and around 85 on the warm side. I’ve been researching all over and I keep convincing myself he’s unbearably stressed. Please help!
Hey, Bella!
Don’t worry – pushing against the screen top is pretty normal. As long as your snake seems healthy otherwise, he has at least one hiding spot, and the habitat temperatures are appropriate (yours sound pretty good, although the basking spot could be slightly warmer), it’s no cause for concern.
Just be sure to watch for abrasions – if his nose starts to get raw or wounded, you’ll want to make a visit to your vet.
Thanks for reading!
Hello Ben,
I’ve had my ball python for 7 years now and she’s always been a rather active snake – not excessively so, but I give her a good amount of space to roam(she could stretch out along long side of her tank and has one platform a bit above the ground that she likes to climb on sometimes) and she usually uses it. She also has 4 hides, one of them a humidity hide, that she uses regularly and I am usually not worried about her level of activity. Her temps are ~73°F on the cool side and ~88°F around the hot spot, and her humidity is around 70% with occasional spraying.
Now, in the last couple weeks I’ve noticed some behavior changes, with her scratching her head on her hides or the walls a lot more than I’ve observed her do it before, and sometimes when she’s resting she’s not actually laying her head down completely and(maybe because of the tension?) shivering/wobbling slightly. I’ve also seen her raise her head towards the ceiling and just stay still for several seconds occasionally. She’s active quite a bit over the afternoon/night, but as I mentioned that’s normal for her. I haven’t made any significant changes to her husbandry in that time except put her on a larger food size – she gets those down without problem and afterwards disappears into her hides for a couple days like she should, and I haven’t seen any signs of mites or heard heavy breathing from her.
I’m sorry this is such a long post, I just wanted to ask if there’s anything I should be worried about? If I’ve learned one thing in my time as a snake keeper it’s that sometimes they’re just being weird without a reason, so I just wanted a second opinion if any of this sounds concerning, or if I should just not worry too much until I see more alarming signs, and what to look out for.
Also, I do my best to give my snake the best possible care by my best knowledge, so if there’s any errors in my husbandry you’ve noticed feel free to point them out and I’ll correct them.
If you’ve read this far I am both impressed and sorry for the text wall, and I’d be delighted to hear your advice. Thank you so much!
Hey, Aly.
First of all, I think your husbandry regimen and practices are fantastic. I literally smiled when reading your question, as it is obvious you are clearly interested in taking great care of your pet. If I were to make any recommendation, it would be to bump up the hot spot temperature about 2 degrees, but that’s being really nit-picky. Overall, it sounds like you are doing an awesome job, and I love that you’re including so many hides.
You’re absolutely right that our snakes occasionally do things we don’t understand, which is certainly frustrating, but some of her behaviors are a bit concerning.
Rubbing her head on objects sounds to me like typical shedding behavior. At the beginning of the process, they’ll often rub their heads on things in the enclosure. But, given that you’ve been caring for her quite well for 7 years, I’m guessing you’d have seen her do so before. Regardless, if she just did it for a short time period, I wouldn’t worry too much.
However, the “wobbling/shivering” and head elevation may be a bigger deal. They may be indicative of a respiratory infection, so it’d probably be a good idea to take her in for a check up at the vet. That’s probably not great to hear, but you sound like you are taking excellent care of your pet, and she’ll likely have a great chance of recovery with your vet’s help.
Best of luck and keep up the great work!
Hey! So I just got my ball python two days ago. One one side I have her hide with a heat pad under the glass around 90 degrees, and on the other side I have her water and a heat lamp above the cage, which makes the middle of the cage roughly 75 degrees and over the water a little warmer. She hasn’t come out of her hide yet unless I get in the cage to take her out. Is she just comfortable in the hide? She actually shedded yesterday and it was a full shed.
Hey there, Jerome!
I wouldn’t worry about your snake if she seems healthy otherwise. Most snakes hide for a significant portion of the time, and ball pythons are certainly no exception.
Additionally, snakes are more likely to hide before shedding than any other time, so everything sounds normal.
Thanks for reading!
I just got a ball python a couple days ago. When we take him out hes moving around with my partner but when i get him hes basically motionless. I am a little nervous with him but im fairly comfortable holding him. Does he just not like me?
Hey, Brittany. Congrats on your new snake!
I wouldn’t worry – it is highly unlikely that your snake distinguishes very much between you and your partner, and even less likely that he “likes” one of you more than the other. We all love snakes, but they aren’t exactly brilliant creatures, nor are they wired for very much social interaction.
But, if you are nervous, it may be causing you to (subconsciously) hold him in ways that prevent him from feeling comfortable.
At the end of the day, I wouldn’t worry about it – just try to work on feeling more comfortable when handling him, and he’ll likely relax a bit too.
Best of luck!
Our ball python just shed and was making a weird puffing like sound from her mouth. Do you know why that happened because I got scared and thought she couldn’t breathe. One more thing, do you recommend that she should breed or not. Thank You!
Hey, Liam.
Unusual breathing sounds are pretty common before and during the shedding process, but strange sounds that occur after your snake sheds can be more troubling. They may indicate the presence of a respiratory infection.
Sorry to be so late responding to your question, but I’d recommend that you have your vet check her out if she’s still making strange breathing sounds. Otherwise, if she’s no longer making the sounds and has resumed eating and behaving normally, she’s probably fine.
If your female snake is healthy and you have the time and resources to take care of the resulting offspring, I say go for it! But, just be aware that caring for a clutch of baby ball pythons is a lot of work, so consider your actions carefully.
Good luck!
I finally put moss in my ball pythons terrium and it started hissing quietly as I put it down gently I think I may have put too much water on the coconut fiber and miss but it’s just very unhappy I don’t know what to do please help me
Hey, Zaria.
I wouldn’t worry about it – I bet your snake was just a little irritable and he or she may have just been expressing his grumpiness. As long as he or she is acting healthy, I wouldn’t worry about it.
Thanks for your questions!
Hey Ben!
My boyfriend and I just adopted a 20 year old girl ball python. She is very chill and curious when meeting people. Today I took her out to meet my roommates for 10 minutes and her whole body started to vibrate. It was very strange and was wondering what this behavior could mean, as I googled it and couldn’t find much about it. Although she’s very socialized, it is her first few days living with us and I thought maybe the body vibrating has to do with stress. Pls let me know thanks!!
Hey there, Natalie.
First of all, it’s really cool that you have a 20-year-old ball python! ‘Ol gal has been kicking around longer than a lot of young keepers have been alive!
To be honest, I’ve never seen, felt, or heard of a ball python “vibrating.” If you made me take a guess, I’d suggest that you could be feeling vibrations associated with her breathing. If this is what’s happening, you’d probably want to have your vet give her a once over, just to be sure she doesn’t have a respiratory infection.
But, if she’s healthy, I wouldn’t worry about it. Just chalk it up as one of the weird things our snakes sometimes do!
Best of luck.
I just recently got my first ball python, she was pretty underweight when we got her a month and a half ago but has since almost gotten back to a normal weight. She’s only about 1’1/2 so I’m assuming it’s fairly young! She still hasn’t shed yet for us and has been acting scared of food when it’s been feeding time for the last two weeks. She basks above her hide all day and sleeps all night? Her temp is 86 on the heat side and about 75 on the cool side. She’s in coconut fiber substrate if that makes any difference. She still acts scared when I take her out so I try to leave her alone most of the time. Is it normal that she hasn’t shed and she’s been refusing to eat? Also how long should it take until she doesn’t tense up while I hold her? Thank you so much in advance and any tips help since this is my first ball!
Hey, Morgen. Congrats on your first ball python!
First thing’s first: You’ll want to bump up the temperatures on the warm side of her tank first. Aim for temperatures between 90 and 95 degrees (just make sure the opposite side of the enclosure is cooler). Her “backwards” behavior pattern is a little concerning, but it may just be that she’s a little cool and trying to keep warm.
I would recommend that you get her to begin eating regularly before handling her. Stress will often cause ball pythons to refuse food, so make sure that you are leaving her alone for the most part until she starts to eat regularly. Don’t worry about her not shedding yet — when the time is right, and her body is ready, she’ll slip out of that skin. Also, note that the shedding process makes snakes a bit nervous, so it is possible that she is already getting ready to do so.
I wouldn’t be surprised if she began eating regularly and calmed down a bit when handled once she sheds.
Best of luck!
I got my baby female ball python about two months ago and she won’t eat, I’ve had to assist feed her a few times because she is getting so skinny her skin is loose and moves to the side and her spine looks weird (I’m unsure if this is due to the weight or not). She has always seemed interested in her food but has only striked at it once since I got her. I don’t know if it is just from stress or from sickness and I’m worried she will starve to death. She is active at night and seems happy when I hold her (I only do this occasionally to get a better look at her) but when she is in her tank and I look at her to check in her she seems scared because she breathes hard. What should I do to get her to eat etc? And if she needs to go to the vet can I go to any ordinary vet or does it have to be a special one since it is a snake? Thanks for the helpful article
Hi there, Hope.
So sorry to hear about the troubles with your snake (and I apologize for not responding sooner). I would definitely recommend taking her into the vet. There are a variety of health problems, including everything from mites to respiratory infections to parasites, which may cause a snake to refuse food. So, get her in to the vet so you can address any problems she’s experiencing – hopefully, she’ll start eating regularly after she starts feeling better.
You can go to any vet who’s willing to treat your snake, but you’ll likely have much better luck by going to one that specializes in reptiles. A Google search should turn up some options in your area, but if that doesn’t work, consider calling around to local reptile-oriented pet stores and ask for some recommendations.
Best of luck!
I have a 7 year old BP that was given to us. We have had him for about 3 months now and the previous owner who had him since he was small I’m assuming said he was feeding a medium size rat every 3 weeks. Well it was time to feed and we got one he refused to eat it he had no interest in all I read that they could be picky eaters based off color of the food so to speak so we tried again with a medium size in a different color he ate when we weren’t home he wouldn’t touch it when we were home so we put it in the cage with him. Fast forward to second feeding pet store was out of medium so we got a small rat no problems he ate it in no time we were told to wait a week then try and feed again we got yet another medium size (pet stores recommended to get back in feeding schedule) and he wouldn’t eat it. My questions are 1. Does color really matter? 2. Can this be a sign that medium size are too big? 3. Is it healthy for a BP to be fed every 3 weeks?
Hey, Court. Thanks for your questions.
1) “Color” doesn’t really matter, as ball pythons see largely in shades of grey. That said, some ball pythons do prefer rodents that look more like wild rodents. So, it can be helpful to avoid all white “lab rats,” in favor of brown, black or multi-color individuals. But I seriously doubt your snake cares whether the rodent you offer is brown or grey, for example.
2) It sounds to me like your ball python’s food refusal is more closely related to stress than food size. Most 7-year-old ball pythons should be able to handle a medium rat, although that may be a pretty big meal. I’d recommend moving down to small rats, just to be on the safe side. Some individual snakes do have size preferences.
3) A 3-week feeding schedule may be adequate, but typically, it is wiser to offer smaller, more frequent meals. The important thing to consider is your snake’s body weight and condition. Speak with your vet about it, if you are unsure whether your snake is getting enough food.
Best of luck!
Hey, had a question regarding retained eye caps. My python was having shed issues and as I’ve always been told, left her alone. But after many weeks I knew something was wrong and took her in the shower and removed TWO complete sheds. The head was another problem. I found out about a snake specialist and took her in and they said the had fused caps that are now scar tissue. I asked if that was permanent and they said yes but shouldn’t harm her or shorten her life. What I don’t understand is why the next shed wouldn’t just eject them as they grow from the inside out. Can you give me a second opinion on this? Thank you in advance.
Hey, Marcus. Thanks for reading and sharing your question.
That’s a strange one. I’ve never heard of a snake’s eye caps (spectacles) becoming “fused.” You are correct that you shouldn’t try to remove retained eye caps, but I’d recommend re-examining your husbandry practices if your snake is experiencing chronic shedding problems.
It’s probably also a good idea to seek out a second opinion from another vet.
Best of luck!
i got my first ball python 2 weeks ago and she ate the first day she got here i would take her out a bit and put her back in leave her alone a bit you know the usual and for some reason she hasnt pooped i tried making it more humid i gave her a nice warm bath i left her alone a couple days then she ate 4!!! pinky mice (def time to size up) but she still hasnt pooped and shes been hiding in her humid hide a lot more balled up and not move she would stay there for days i checked on her and she hissed at me a lot and looked as if she was gonna bite me in her ”s” pose i put her back in her tank she stayed balled up for a bit tthen she started exploring her page but immediately after goes in the SAME SPOT for hiding i havent really seen her drink water either only 2 times im not sure if everything here is normal or what but please help
Hey, Jan.
Snakes can occasionally go a while between poops, but given everything you shared, I’d recommend having your vet look her over just to be on the safe side.
Best of luck!
Hello Ben! My significant and I recently just bought a ball python from a local Petsmart, and was wondering if you could ease my worries a bit. As I would think being nocturnal of course the BP would be very active, out and about for the most part, not to mention we did just get him Im sure he’s getting a feel for his new digs. However, my concern is when it comes to his adventures, his full extention to reach the top of his enclosure(he likes to fit himself inbetween the small indention where the screen fits onto the tank- I say he’s testing the strength for a breakout!)he happens to lose his grip and falls over. I worry that he may hurt himself due to witnessing him slip and bump his head on the side of the glass, will he be alright?
Hey, Ronni.
Sorry it took us so long to respond – I hope we can still provide some help.
I think I’m familiar with the behavior your describing. He certainly could injure himself like this, but I wouldn’t think it is terribly likely that he would. I’d recommend trying to move any branches or cage furniture out of the way in case he does fall, and I may consider switching to a “fluffier” substrate, but I wouldn’t lose sleep over it.
Thanks for reading!
i have a male Royal ball python and would like to breed it to get an albino or different colors or morphs will it be okay if i breed two royals together, and will i be able to get nice morphs or albinos from the breed ?
Hi there, Michael.
If you are prepared to care for the resulting offspring, there’s no reason you couldn’t breed ball (royal) pythons. If your male is a normal-looking animal, you’d have to breed him to a snake that has a co-dominant or incomplete dominant trait to produce morphs in the first generation.
You’d have to engage in a two-generation project to use a normal ball python to produce any recessive trait (such as albinos).
Best of luck!
My balled python was trying to get its mates attention for at least an hour then out of no where it looked as if he was smiling then he went crazy and hissed puffed itself up a couple times then poo shot out of my snakes bum is this normal I think not but I dont know much
Hey, Robert.
I honestly don’t know what to say – I’m not sure if you’re serious or not.
If you are, I’d recommend heading over to your vet.
Best of luck!
PLEASE HELP!!
I have a 9 year old ball python (got him at 3 months old), and he has always been the healthiest guy imaginable. The last few months however he has been SUPER active in his tank almost non stop, culminating last night when he BROKE OUT OF HIS TANK (it was locked and secure, although I will admit the lid isn’t in the best shape due to years of wear and tear).
His substrate is clean, his tank is worm, he always has water, his weight is perfect, what is going on???? please help!!!
Hey, Michelle.
Sorry it took us so long to respond! I hope you’ll still find this helpful.
Assuming that your snake is actually healthy, hyperactivity is probably caused by one of three things:
1. The cage is too hot. Like, dangerously hot. So, double-check your temperatures.
2. Your snake is a male that’s thinking about lady pythons. There’s not much you can do about this besides let him breed, or just wait until his urge passes.
3. Your snake is stressed because of some perceived threat. Do you have a cat that likes to sit in front of the enclosure? Do children tap on the enclosure all day long? Make sure you address any potential sources of stress and ensure that he has a secure hiding space.
Best of luck!
Ok so this post…I too have a male BP (we had him sexed) and his spurs have just shown themselves. He is super friendly and happy, hasn’t gotten the eating thing down yet but been taking him to vet regularly to get fed but the last couple days since noticing the spurs he has been all over the place. Prior to this he would come out between 11pm-1am to crawl around a bit then hide and sleep til between 6-8 am to come out for a bit and go back to sleep and that was the only time we seen him. Past 2 days he’s prowling more than hiding. Could he really just be looking for a mate? We’re getting ready to go into spring and the outside temps are raising. Birds chirping, cats and dogs looking for mates so I naturally thought maybe he is too, but some opinions on this would be most hopeful.
Hey, Leslie.
If your snake is mature or nearly so (somewhere north of 400 or 500 grams), then he may very well be lookin’ for the ladies! But, unusual activity can also occur before shedding or, in some cases, as the result of excessive enclosure temperatures.
So, double-check your cage temps. If they look good, I wouldn’t worry.
Best of luck with your breeding trials!
When snakes sleep, do they say “Sssss” or “Zzzzz”? 🐍
No they dont
My boyfriend and I rescued 2 ball pythons who were deathly sick and the vet only gave them 50/50 chance. After a month of injections every day, they are finally back to their healthy selves. I have done a lot of research before, and still am doing a lot. They have been in the same tank for almost 5 years now the guy says and they constantly look for each other, when we have them out they always have to be touching. It’s so weird but cute! We have them in a 75 gallon fish tank because that’s what they came with, a big hide that they can both fit in, we tried putting two in there but they would always end up in the same hide anyways so we figured if we took one out it would give them more room, and a bigger water dish because Noodle likes to swim, along with a big stick they can climb but they don’t seem to really use it. Noodle sometimes rubs her snoot on the glass for a few minutes or on the water dish, she isn’t shedding, she just shed a month ago and there is nothing left stuck on her. Nopie when he goes back in the tank, tries to get out and that has just recently started, he also got done shedding a month/month and a half ago. They are VERY curious and constantly doing something whether it’s climbing behind the hut, pushing the bedding away, or laying in the water dish…they seem content and happy and eat once a week. Some behaviors though lately have me questioning if everything we are doing is OK. The vet says we are doing a great job but I’m afraid some of these signs means they are stressed and I am unsure about what to do about it.
I guess my main questions are;
1. Do you think we should separate them even though they do look for each other?
2. Instead of separating them do you think they just need a bigger tank? They are about 3 1/2 feet long and have plenty of room to sprawl out if they want.
3. Should we put anything else in the tank with them? I read that two sides of a glass enclosure should be covered so they don’t feel like they are too out there, one side is pushed up against the wall though.
Also, we are going on vacation at the end of the month and were going to take them to a friends house so he could watch them. He does have python experience, but they aren’t going to be in THEIR enclosure for a week, they are going to be in something different while at this guys house. Do you think it would be best to keep them in THEIR tank or is it OK to send them away for a week?
They are my kids and I love them so much already, I only want what’s best for them.
Thanks for your time!
Hey, Madison.
On behalf of your snakes, I want to thank you for trying so hard to give them a high quality of life. Kudos to you and your boyfriend!
To answer your questions:
1) I would recommend separating them. Snakes are not really social animals, and although it may appear that they are trying to “spend time with each other,” it is more likely that they are just finding the same spot cozy. Ball pythons are almost completely solitary (aside from breeding attempts) in the wild. Separate housing just makes it easier to care for them, and it’ll help prevent accidents at feeding time (which can be very dangerous).
2) I always advocate for large enclosures, but a 75-gallon tank is actually pretty spacious. I’d still recommend separating them though.
3) Covering some of the glass can help keep their stress level down and make them feel more secure. However, your snakes seem like they’re doing well, eating regularly, and using their hide space when they want to, so I wouldn’t worry about covering the tank.
4) Yes – if possible, I would keep them in “their” tank. This will help prevent them from becoming stressed.
You sound like you are doing very well! Just keep up the good work and continue to learn all you can!
Thanks for reading.
Hi there
We inherited an 8 year old ball python from a friend. He’s pretty docile and happy and we’re getting to know him better over the last few months.
He’s a super messy shedder- humidity and temp good and lots of things to rub himself on but he’s always been messy. Makes it really hard to check the shed and ensure his eye caps are off- basically impossible in the last two sheds. Any advice?
We also think he’s a little underweight (need to weigh him when he’s more docile as he was so active last time!) but he feeds well and seems healthy otherwise- should I be worried?
I’m also surprisingly a little nervy about handling him- sometimes he sits with his neck in an S-shape a bit tense and I get worried about how to get a hand in the viv to fill up his bath/ check for poop or shed etc. Even though I know he’s never bitten anyone I’m just not as confident as I’d like to be or thought I would be. Once he’s out and I’m handling him I’m fine but I’ve been shy about actually getting him out!
He spends alot of time hiding and pokes his head out every now and then- that’s ok right? Just their nature?
Cheers
Hi Clare,
When it comes to your pythons shedding issues, does he have a moist hide in his enclosure? If not then please add one, some pythons require their humidity to be increased up to around the 75% mark whilst shedding, although make sure this is only for a limited amount of time as keeping this humidity for longer than a couple of days could result in health issues. Try to feed him a little more, perhaps 2 food items at a time rather than one or feed more regularly (one a week max). If he continues to lose weight then get him seen by a vet as there could be an underlying cause. The S shape is likely just reacting to the movement in his enclosure, make sure you always come in at his level and never from above. Ball pythons rarely bite, although if you act nervous, moving your hand quickly in his enclosure this may cause him to strike thinking you are food. You can try by touching the mid section of his body when you enter the enclosure to let him know you’re there. Maybe see if there is a local experience keeper who could show you some handling techniques to increase your confidence. Yes, most snakes like to hide and are scared of open spaces, ball pythons are also nocturnal so he will likely be hiding whilst you are awake, he’s just poking his head out to see what’s going on, nothing to worry about.
Hi i have a question have u ever had ur python crawling on your arm abd put their eye and face close to your skin and open their mouth twice? My husband had this happen tonight she did bit him but it was not normal us?
Hi, Patricia. It sounds like your husband’s hands/arms smelled like food. Just make sure you always wash your hands after handling or petting any other critters.
Thanks for reading!
Hi, I’ve had a few bp’s for a couple years now, all has been fine with them, dealt with a few bad sheds, seen some strange things and learnt a lot about the odd things they might do, but I can’t seem to find any answers on this one.
Never seen my BP do this, he’s 5 years old and always has good sheds and eats no problems, but I’ve noticed him kind of contorting his head and neck and yawning while flexing his jaw at the same time, similar to what they do when a bp farts, but he was just doing the head motions, no puffing or hissing like an RI at all. Any idea what this could be?
Hi Mark,
Without seeing this in person it is hard to know for sure but here are a few things it could be. Perhaps your python is developing some kind of mouth rot or has something (for example substrate) stuck inside its mouth. It may also be some kind of neurological condition. I would suggest filming the behaviour and having your snake checked out by a vet just to be sure.
I just bought my hatchlin ball python yesterday and the pet store said that it was feeding day
I got him home and his house set up and tried feeding him and he refused it so i left it there over night and he still hasnt ate is this normal for a new snake not to wanna eat
Hey, Cheyanne.
Stress – such as often occurs when bringing a snake home or transferring him to a new habitat – will often cause snakes to refuse food.
Just discard the rodent and try again in about a week. Don’t worry: Your snake isn’t going to starve in a few weeks’ time.
Best of luck!
I have just recently bought my first ball python she was captive bread by a local breeder and i have red alot and wanted to educate myself to the fullest as this was going to be my first snake it has been a very fun journey learning all the stuff I’ve read and have found snakes in general to be quite fascinating however some of the things ive read in other places and even here dont exactly match the behavior of my snake like at all……for example i know pythons in general are pretty nice in nature for the most part and as u stated before they bite you will know they are uncomfortable…….mine doesn’t seem to get uncomfortable by just about anything young children other pets in the house like a dog she has not snapped drew back into the s form or nothing no matter what she has encountered since ive had her. I also have read that even if they dont bite or scare to easy none like their head touched or messed with and will usually atleast yank their head back quick in fear however mine seems to act like a puppy loves her head rubbed nudges me to do so even and when around my neck nudges my chin rubs her head against me and i read on here it isnt good to handle your snake for too long or too much but seems to me my snake cant wait to get out of her enclosure and to be held or handled……as soon as i out her in her cage she seems tonact just like my bearded dragon i had for years did and seems to want back out enjoys the attention she gets and wants it more than to just lay there in her enclosure…..she doesn’t seem to stress outside or even in public like at all and i was wandering since ive heard so many different things that dont describe my snake like at all could it be a sign that something is wrong with her she seems completely healthy no mites no scale rot mouth rot or respiratory issues at all however if handling her too much can cause any of these health issues should i not handle her even though she acts like everything is more ok that way and seems. To prefer being handled or up my around my neck all the time and keeps acting like she only gets upset if i put her in her enclosure is this any kinda sign something may be not.ok. with her because her behaviour doesnt seem to match all ive read….. even if was for the better….51 q still her behavior doesn’t add up should this be a. reason to be concerned or does this give you any kind of.clue that there is something wrong and what it could be or do i just have a rare case of a very tame mild mannered snake that likes attention?
Hey, Joe.
First of all, I applaud the amount of time and effort you’re putting into your pet. You seem like you’re really trying to provide your pet with a wonderful life, and you’re being observant about his behavior.
Ball pythons are often quite docile. But they’re all individuals with slightly different personalities. You may have just ended up with one that is particularly chill.
As long as the habitat is set up properly, your snake is eating well, and he’s not exhibiting any of the signs we mention above (nostril discharge, etc.), he’s probably fine. But it probably wouldn’t hurt to head to the vet to double check everything anyway.
I would caution you that snakes don’t always exhibit obvious signs of stress, and it does sound like you may be handling him quite a bit. It’s also important that we don’t misinterpret our pets’ behaviors — I doubt your snake “wants” to be handled, although he may very well tolerate it.
Point being, I would encourage you to restrict handling sessions to about 10 minutes or so a day, and it’s probably a good idea to give him several “off days” a week, when you leave him completely alone. And obviously, give him at least 24 to 48 hours after feeding to digest before you handle him.
Thanks for reading, and we wish you the best of luck with your pet!
My snake does the same type pf behavior!
I try to put her back in her enclosure (which ive made SURE has/stays at the right conditions-temp/humidity/etc.) And she constantly tries to get out… Then once I let her shes calms down and just seems to ‘want’ to hangout.
Its not a feeding thing cause she’ll do it the first time i handle her after a feeding (24-48hrs+ after) – plus shes got a different way she moves around when shes hungry vs. When she just seems to ‘want’ to hangout. 😝🤷 and its not that she doesnt like her enclosure.. Once she has time to settle in/forget about life on the outs-she is totally normal and content until she wants to hang again. 😜
Ive done lots of research and notice my ball python seems a little “different” as well… Never balls up. Ever. Always eats-on schedule…
Maybe we just got lucky with extra friendly snakies? 😛
Mine is the SAME way. She loves to sit and be with us almost every night whether she’s in the tank, resting her head on something to look out at us, or actually laying with us. I tend to hold her pretty often and she likes it. If she doesn’t- she’ll let me know by slithering down. She often gets upset to go back in the tank and makes a lot of fuss to get out.
I just got a male ball python about 4 weeks ago. He is now 10 weeks old and acts exactly like your ball python. He sleeps most of the day and in the evening he’s crawling around looking for a way out. I only take him out when he does this and he is also pretty chill but likes to explore a lot. When I hold him he doesn’t always like to sit still. I try to leave him alone for a few days but it’s hard. He went to the vet at 8 weeks old and he got a clean bill of health. The only problem I have is he ate 2 days after I got him and has refused to eat since then. I talked to the vet about it when we were there and she said to turn up the heat in the tank, he may not be warm enough but it’s been 2 more weeks and still refuses anything I give him. The first time he ate a whole mouse. Since then I’ve tried hopper mice, pinky rats, other brands of mice and nothing. I tried feeding him in a separate enclosure, at night, in the morning, outside in the yard. Still nothing. I called my vet again today and she said my temps and humidity levels are all good. He is acting like normal, doesn’t appear to be sick or anything. I have to wait to bring him in since they are booked but I am at a loss. He hasn’t shown any signs of shedding other than some scales turning grey but that could be dry skin or scales that didn’t fall off with the last shed. I’ve also given him 2 warm 15 minute soaks too. Maybe you guys can share some ideas.
Hi Erin,
Ball pythons are nocturnal so being active at night is completely normal. The change in environment can sometimes cause the animal to become stressed and it can take some time for them to acclimatise to their new surroundings. I would hold off on the trips to the vet, bathing etc as this is likely stressing him out more. If he is not losing weight then I wouldn’t start to stress just yet. Try feeding him at dusk, if he doesn’t take it straight away then leave it in the enclosure over-night. If your enclosure is too large, this can also cause a snake to stop eating as they are agoraphobic (scared of open spaces). Also make sure you are defrosting your mice in warm (not hot) water.
Lucy is 15 years old, she has not gone into hiding for two days now and has been basking under the lamps. Should I be concerned I have not seen her do this since we have had her. She has been in the family since a baby. We have had her maybe about 4 months now. During that time she seems to be exhibiting happy behavior. This is new what I have described above. She is not balled up either. She is stretched out and has been.
Hi, Diana. So sorry that we missed your comment earlier. I realize that this advice probably won’t help you now, but it may help someone else in the future. Let us know how things went with your snake!
As for the outstretched body posture, that could mean a variety of things.
Snakes suffering from respiratory infections often exhibit strange postures (it can help them breathe more easily), but it could also be associated with reproductive events like ovulation. And then sometimes, snakes just lay in a stretched-out position because, well, they just do.
It’s really impossible to be sure based off the info provided. If your snake is exhibiting any symptoms of illness, I’d head to the vet ASAP. Otherwise, I’d recommend just watching her for a day or two. It doesn’t necessarily sound like a problem, but you’re correct to seek help whenever your snake does anything weird.
Best of luck!
How will a ball python act if he dont have enough room in his cage to streach and move about. I was given a ball python unexpectedly,and it was something I was definitely going to save. And I have only had her a few days I made her home a small fish tank I had until I get payed and am able to buy her something to fit her needs. It just seems her bahavior is sad, I believe well Ibknow she dont have enough room to stretch and move. So can you tell me any signs I should look for, or is it harming her to be in a small tank. It will only be another 3 or 4 days until I’m able to get her proper housing,I’m just worried and want the best for her so any tips you can give me will be very appreciated. Thank you
Hey there. Snakes certainly need habitats that allow them to stretch out, explore, thermoregulate and obtain exercise, but this is a long-term concern. Don’t worry about habitat size over the short term. In fact, it may actually help the snake feel a bit more secure while he is dealing with all of the changes going on in his life.
As long as your snake has enough room to lay comfortably and change position as necessary, I wouldn’t worry about habitat size if you’ll be getting him a proper habitat in a few days.
Also, in case this is your first snake, it is important to understand that many snakes (particularly ball pythons) aren’t especially active. They spend a lot of their lives just sitting there (they probably sleep a lot, but it’s difficult to tell because they have no eyelids).
It’s easy for beginners to think their snake is sick or sad, but snakes just don’t do very much. Also, your ball python is nocturnal, so he’ll likely be most active at night, when you’re not watching him.
Best of luck! Keep us updated!
Yeah I have 3 going all pythons on one of them down by the privates it looks like soon tags on both sides of the privates
Ok my ball python was in feed mode you know following the scent quickly out her hide and she went into the S striking pose, and I could barely notice, but her head was vibrating, ever so slightly. It really scared me and she also didn’t eat that night! I need help! Send me an email or something
It’s hard to tell exactly what’s going on here, but it just sounds like your snake was exhibiting normal hunting behaviors. Snakes sometimes get a bit “physically tense” (for lack of a better phrase) right before eating, and you may interpret this as vibrating.
I wouldn’t worry about it, and I’d just try to feed him/her again on your next scheduled feeding day.
Let us know how it goes!
Hey Ben,
I just recently purchased my first ball python (have had it for 2 months) and he used to be pretty active at night. However, recently he’s hardly come out of his hide (on the cold side). The ambient temperatures are ~75-80 on the cool side. And 90 on the warm side (with a heat pad underneath set to 92). I’m just concerned he might be sick, as he is also refusing food (I’ve gotten him to eat twice since I’ve had him). Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Hey, Kyle.
It sounds like your set up and temperatures are just about perfect. Your snake may be suffering from a respiratory infection (or some other ailment), but if you don’t see him exhibiting any symptoms (nasal discharge, etc.), then he may just be entering a shed cycle (which would also explain the food refusal).
Give him a few days, and if he doesn’t start a shed cycle (or appear blue), then a vet visit would definitely be a good idea.
Best of luck!
Got my ball python about a month ago, and he is about a year and a half old. I’ve noticed that he keeps trying to get to the top of his enclosure and bumps against the top at nighttime, could that be a sign that he’s stressed, or is that normal behavior? I’ve also noticed a faint squeaky noise when he breathes. Warm temp is between 85° and 90° F, ambient temp is around 75° to 80° F, humidity is between 50% to 65%, could the squeaking be because of an RI? He shed a few days ago so I had raised up the humidity to around 75%, could that extra humidity during shedding be a cause for an RI?
Hi Hannah,
Ball pythons are nocturnal so being active and climbing around his enclosure at night is completely normal. The squeaking could definitely be a sign of respiratory infection, your temps are great, humidity should be between 50-60%. I wouldn’t recommend raising the humidity to 75% as this can cause respiratory infections and scale rot, instead keep the humidity constant and provide him with both a normal hide and a moist hide box. If the squeaking persists, take him to a vet for treatment.
I got this new house and in side I found a ball Python in a cage left here its a girl I don’t have a lot of money and the closest pet store is an hour away she seems kinda slow and off balance she was doing fine for a while she would let me hold her and she was very sweet but now I don’t know what happened I thought it was cause I couldn’t get food for her but I read that she can go with out food for almost a year but it has only been two months she had a rat but I fed her a chicken about a month ago I don’t know what to do she sits in the striking pose and she slowly buffers up the side of the cage and falls on her back I also can’t touch her anymore without her hissing at me and going into striking pose please I don’t know how long she was there for before I got here he has been through so much already being abandoned I’d hate for her to pass I tried finding her a home but everyone is scared of her I thought her when I got here and she seemed fine so sweet so gentle and then like on a dime she changed
Hey Sierra, It is difficult to say exactly what is wrong with the ball python without examining her. However, one possibility is that she is ill. Ball pythons can go for a long time without food, but if she is not eating it could be a sign that she is not feeling well.
Additionally, if she has been abandoned it is possible that she is not used to being handled and may be scared of people. If she is hissing and striking when you try to touch her, it is best to leave her alone for now.
I would recommend taking her to a vet or reptile specialist to get her checked out. They will be able to determine if she is ill and give you advice on how to care for her.
Hey Ben,
I’m having problems reading my snakes behavior.I got this male ball python a week ago. I fed him yesterday a perfect size African soft furred rat and I’ve heard those fill them up a lot but today he keeps poking his head out of his hide and following my movement , kind of like displaying hunting or hunger behavior but he’s been doing this since 10am , its 5pm right now. Is he still hungry? Should I feed him another rat ??
Hey, Jen.
It’s hard to say without seeing your snake first-hand or the size of the rodent you offered, but it does sound like he’s hunting. However, snakes hunt a lot without catching prey. They have to! Rats don’t walk by every day.
We’d recommend using his body weight and growth to guide your feeding schedule. And this will take time – don’t worry about him starving over the course of a week or two.
Best of luck!
I’ve had my ball python for 3 years. I got her when she was just over 1 foot long. She is now 39 inches, and a healthy weight. I hold her regularly, both for exercise and to maintain her comfort with humans. She eats when food is offered. She sheds really well. I’ve never had a partial shed with her. But for the past 2 weeks, she’s become really defensive. She’s struck at me multiple times, and refuses to leave her hide. I dont know what’s wrong with her. She doesn’t have mouth rot, an RI, or stuck shed that I can see. I dont want to stress her, but I’m also scared for her. How do I take care of this
Hi Alex,
This behaviour does sound strange, double check your temperatures and humidity. Is she alone in the vivarium? Have you brought any other animals into the house recently? Sounds like something might be spooking her. Have you noticed any other strange behaviour from her?
My Ball has a 1/2″ x 1-1/2″ tumor or cyst on its side about mid-way on its lrft side.
Hi Jon!
I’m sorry to hear about the tumor or cyst on your ball python’s side. It’s essential to have a veterinarian experienced with reptiles examine your snake to determine the nature of the growth and provide appropriate treatment. Tumors and cysts can have various causes, including infections, abscesses, or even more serious conditions. Your vet will be able to advise you on the best course of action, which may include surgical removal or other medical interventions.
It’s important not to attempt any home remedies or treatments without proper veterinary guidance. I hope your ball python receives the necessary care and recovers soon.
So I have a female ball python that just laid a clutch of eggs on the 25th of July and she refused her meals for a couple weeks. She just ate today it’s the 4th of august. Any ways I cleaned her enclosure out 3 or 4 days ago and after she finally took a weaned rat she was in her water dish and started striking up and hissing like something was bothering her but I was no where near her. When I approached her she stood motionless looking straight up and didn’t move until I nudged her water bowl.
Hi Kayson,
Congratulations on the clutch of eggs, are they viable? I wouldn’t worry about her not eating for a couple of weeks, this is completely normal after laying eggs. The strange situation of her striking and hissing makes me think that something spooked her. Remember that pythons also have heat pits so perhaps she sensed a change in temperature or could still pick up on the heat from your body, even though she couldn’t see you. Monitor her over the coming days and let me know if it happens again, also once she has digested her meal, gently feel along the end of her belly and make sure she has passed all of her eggs.
I got this snake frm a person its a python i dont know what kind i wanna say a ball python and they had it in a bucket with alot of water in it why idk but long story short we gave it sum food it didn’t eat it and we gave it a new enclosure and heat mat and light but it still hasn’t ate and barely moving what do I do
Hi Aj,
It’s concerning to hear about the python’s condition. First and foremost, it’s essential to accurately identify the species, as care requirements can vary. If you suspect it’s a ball python, ensure the enclosure maintains a warm side temperature of around 88-92°F and a cooler side of 78-80°F, with humidity levels of 50-60%, increasing during shedding periods.
Given the stress it’s been under, it’s crucial to minimize handling and provide several hides for security. Wait about a week before attempting to feed again, making sure the prey size is suitable. If the snake continues to refuse food or shows signs of distress, I strongly recommend consulting a reptile veterinarian.
Your efforts to rescue and care for the snake are commendable, and I hope it recovers soon.
I have a 5 yr old male ball python he has never striked the cage or ate but every 2 – 4 weeks in the almost 2 yrs of me having him. He has been eating one to 2 medium size rats once a day for the past two weeks strikes the cage and still wants more what is wrong with him? Im scared to even clean his cage now and its really dirty because it seems like he’s always at the top ready to strike. So im scared of him now? What do i do?
Hi Ashley,
It is best not to feed your python so regularly so return to feeding him every 1 – 2 weeks. Check your temperatures and make sure he has plenty of places to hide. Has anything changed, do you have any new pets, for example a cat or dog that has access to the room where you keep your python? It may be best to start feeding your python in a different enclosure in case he is becoming food orientated, also when handling try to come in at the same level as your python, coming from above can cause snakes to panic as they are preyed on by birds in the wild. I would suggest seeing if you can find an experienced keeper who wouldn’t mind coming to help you handle your python.
Hey Ben I gave my snake her dinner on Friday and the last time she ate was last week Friday. Well I thought she ate her mouse and today I found it in her hiding spot should I take the dead mouse out of the cage or see if she eats it because Sylvia has no place to hide now
Hi so I usually get useful information about boas from ball pythons as they’re so similar anyway my boa kept on attacking the glass I’ve had her for over a year and this is the first time I’ve ever seen her do this I was just wondering if this is cuz of her smelling food what was on top of her Viv and her being hungry or if there is something else again she has never done this for what I’m aware of I found so e information to put a blanket on and turn her light off just wondering if there is anything else I can do so she doesn’t hurt herself plz it’d be amazing if u can message back thx
Hi Dylan,
It’s not unusual for boas to attack the glass when they are hungry or smelling food. It is a sign of their natural instincts kicking in as they become excited by the prospect of a potential meal. The best way to handle this situation is to make sure your boa has regular feeding times and always offer her nutritious, high-quality food. Additionally, it is important to ensure her environment is stimulating and enriching – provide things for her to explore and interact with.
You can try covering the sides of the enclosure with a blanket or paper to reduce visual stimuli and help your boa feel more secure. Turning off the light can also help reduce stress. It’s important to monitor your boa’s behavior and make sure it has access to appropriate hiding places and environmental conditions.
I hope this helps! Take care
So I notice my ball python sometimes breathes a little heavy, he has no signs of struggling to breath, no mouth gaping or bubbles from the nose. I’m curious if it is him getting stressed by myself coming over to monitor him and his temperatures. He is pretty docile, a little skittish at times but he is very active. His temperature is 90 degrees in the hot spot, around 75 degrees on the cool side, he does go to and from both ends. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I’d also like to add he is going through the process of his first shed with me since I got him in May.
Hey, Kim. Unusual breathing is a pretty common issue for snakes that are in a shed cycle. As long as he’s not blowing bubbles or producing any fluid from his nose or mouth, and his breathing returns to normal after he sheds, I wouldn’t worry.
However, if the breathing issues continue, or you start to see a discharge, go ahead and get to your vet.
Best of luck!
My ball python “hugs” my hand/fingers very tightly like she is constricting but only with her head/jawline. What is this behavior? I’ve never experienced thos one with my previous ball
Hey, Jenna.
It’s hard to tell exactly what these crazy serpents are doing sometimes! She may just be trying to get a better grip on your hand, or it may be just a byproduct of the way she’s crawling around.
True constricting behavior is pretty serious business; it’s not a casual “hug.” So, I wouldn’t worry about it one way or the other.
Thanks for your question!
Same with our python, Shes less than Year old. Is yours still Doing it ?
Hey man, my ball python is 6 months old normal feeding schedule but for the past two days it has been acting way different
He’s been twitching and stargazing as well as sort of slamming himself down. Rubbing on the glass
Tried to feed him and he refused. Any ideas???
Hi James,
Males can sometimes become more active and climb around the enclosure during mating season as they are looking for a mate, these changes in behaviour can be caused by changes in temperature. Mating season is usually from mid september to mid november. The twitching is usually a sign of irritation but the stargazing can be a sign of something more sinister such as an underlying medical condition affecting the nervous system. If the stargazing has persisted for a few days I would take him to a vet to get him checked over.
I can’t really reply but I’ve heard of head wobble. My spider ball does it too. Plus he turns himself upside down and frequently misses his mouse when he strikes. Maybe someone can help Adam and myself??
Hi Jeff,
This is definitely a problem with the central nervous system. If your snake is stargazing or behaving strangely like described, it is always best to get it looked at by a vet. There are a number of causes including brain trauma, bacterial or viral infections and Inclusion Body Disease. These symptoms can also be caused by genetic defects from birth.